Day 2

Day 2 started from the village of Mikra, quite close to the airport. We had some coffee from Hotel Haris but, alas, no breakfast. After packing the van and a short drive back toward Thessaloniki (near to the point where we think Maria's farmhouse was located) we joined up with the village tracks that skirted the fields and headed north-east towards the higher road.

We we quite happy trotting along, when the new motorway made a rather rude interruption. We had two choices - walk a mile or so to the nearest bridge, or take our chances with a daring dart through traffic. The latter won out, and after finding a suitable spot we waited for a natural lull in the traffic. It was probably illegal, but it woke us up far more than the coffee!

We were then able to continue along the same farm track, eventually emerging close to the military airbase. We followed the fenceline north-east, joining a track alongside a gulley until we finally emerged at the main road.The road was straight as a die, and headed downhill in a gradual slope to the next village - Nea Redestos, which we reached in about 30mins. We established that all the 'Nea' villages signify that the population originate from Turkey - part of the great redistribution of Greek families in 1922. It means that this village would have been on your route back in 1941.

The main square is the intersection of four or five roads - quite a large space, but no sign of a well or fountain, and no-one to ask! The land to the north climbed the slopes of a single peak, but the plateau didn't start for some distance to the north-east. We decided to continue on the road, and in another 10km or so reached the next village - Vasilikas. Here the locals confirmed that there had been a village fountain in the centre, that had been lost in redevelopment. The village also straddled a stream, and there would have been a bridge.

From Vasilikas, we headed north, aiming for the village of Peristera. It was a long slow climb up to the plateau, and we left the road mid-afternoon, pushing across country through jumbled limestone boulders and thorny holm oak. The views down the valley were magnificent - the afternoon haze rendering everything into a sepia image. To the east the hills receded in a graduated series of greys and browns.

We arrived in the village just as dusk was falling. A cold beer in the square was what the doctor had ordered, and spirits were soon raised. Our accomodation was provided by the church, and we slept comfortably in the church hall, with.a splendid view of the 9th century church just below us.

Tomorrow we head higher, crossing the pass and across to the north-east to Kalamoto!